Photo by John Severson Greg Nollīorn in 1937 in California. Greg Noll (aka Da Bull) at Pipeline, 1964. These men paved the way for a new generation of fearless, care-free Californians, alongside the Hawaiians, to dominate the Hawaiian waves and push big wave surfing to higher and higher levels, uncovering and riding larger and heavier waves as they went.
It was the image of Downing, Froiseth, and Trent in 1953 - riding a huge wave - on the front page of a Californian newspaper, which stunned Californian surfers into migrating to Hawaii in search of these big, warm water waves in paradise. George Downing also developed the first big wave surfboard, making the bigger waves more accessible. It was these heroic surfers that were the first to take on the big waves at Makaha, Hawaii.
The origins of big wave surfing date back to the 1940s and 50s. George Downing, Wally Froiseth, Woody Brown, and Buzzy Trent (among others), are considered the forefathers of big wave riding.
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